Table of Contents
- the most common trouble call by service and repair HVAC companies
- about thermostat wire with a resource for more information
- the best advice for changing your thermostat
- the most common mistakes made by DIY thermostat changers
- the importance of identifying the type of HVAC system you have so you will select the proper thermostat.
- advisory and disclaimer for installing a new thermostat
- list of tools commonly needed to install a new thermostat
- step by step instructions on changing your thermostat along with hints and tips for making the job easier
- lots of extra links to other articles to make sure you completely understand everything you need to know. (and more about thermostats, thermostat wire, and installing a new thermostat)
- Resource to color codes to make it easier for installation.
- some thermostat wire diagrams at the end of the article
- You can save energy for your heating and cooling system by installing an energy-saving 7-day programmable thermostat or a setback thermostat.
- lots of comments from our readers
- thermostat wiring instructions are good for most low voltage room thermostats including a smart thermostat.
How to Wire a Thermostat
How to Wire a Thermostat - Your thermostat or programmable thermostat is an integral part of your comfort system. These thermostats, whichever type of thermostat(s) you have, require little maintenance. Often, I find that the only thing people know about their AC and Heating systems is how to turn the thermostat on and off. And change the temperature setting.
The purpose of this site is to help people go beyond the thermostat. We help you learn more about their system as a whole. And not just a dial on the wall that adjusts the temperature when they are not comfortable. However, we’ll delve into the world of thermostats on this page, and hopefully, this will help many people. Now, on to how to wire a thermostat.
We have many other related articles. Use the search feature to the right to help you find other related articles.
HVAC Service Calls and Thermostats | How to Wire a Thermostat
A very common occurrence with service calls is the complaint that the thermostat isn’t working properly. Sometimes this is true, but often it is something entirely different than the thermostat. Because some people believe the only problem is with the thermostat. Finally, they go down to the local hardware store and purchase a brand new thermostat.
They get home and dust off the toolbox. Never reading any thermostat installation directions, they proceed to change the thermostat. Some are successful at changing the thermostat and some are not. Those that are most likely read some thermostat installation directions or had someone read the thermostat installation directions for them. Finally, the ones that are not successful end up calling a professional in to install a new thermostat.
Successful Thermostat Installation Advice Article (opens in a new window)
Thermostat Installation Advice | How to Wire a Thermostat
The bottom line advice to most people is to call an HVAC professional if something is wrong. Whether it is with your thermostat or HVAC system. The problem may not be with the thermostat. And you may exasperate the problem which will cost more in the long run. Additionally, If you have a multi-zone system, a high-efficiency heat pump or even just a heat pump, a regular split-system AC and a boiler for heat (and you have one thermostat), or an Apollo-based system (hot water heated in a water heater) with a split AC system……. call a professional.
These systems can be very complex and may require special sub-bases so the thermostat control circuit will work properly. Additionally, for heat pumps, there are different controls, and wires for these controls run into the thermostat, they are multi-colored thermostat wires. These controls can be very complex. Finally, each wire must go to the correct terminal on the thermostat or the unit will not run correctly.
Questions You Need To Answer Before Changing the Thermostat | How to Wire a Thermostat
- What do the thermostat wire colors mean? (See our thermostat wiring color page for help)
- How many wires do I need for a thermostat? This depends on the type of HVAC System you have. Typically, a heat pump will require more wires than any other HVAC system.
- How do you hook up a thermostat? See our detailed instructions below.
- What does the old thermostat wiring mean? These are the wires you will use to wire the new thermostat. Take a photo with your smartphone while they are still hooked to the old thermostat. That will help with wiring the new thermostat.
- What wires are for heat on the thermostat? What wires are for cooling on the thermostat? For detailed wiring explanations, see our thermostat wiring colors chart or page.
Variations with Thermostat Installations | How to Wire a Thermostat
There are so many different variations of this High Performance HVAC and will not attempt to describe them here. We will describe the common type (at least for this region (mid-Atlantic) and if you see that you have the system described you can proceed cautiously at your own risk. Furthermore, here is a list of possible thermostat wiring combinations beginning with the most common first:
5-Wire Thermostat Wiring | How to Wire a Thermostat
This is the most common and covers many central air conditioners with an air handler or gas furnace. Finally, the 5 wires likely cover Red for 24-volt hot, white for heat, yellow for cooling, green for the fan, and blue for common (common could be another color).
4-Wire Thermostat Wiring | How to Wire a Thermostat
This is typically for a thermostat that is battery powered or a heat-only digital thermostat. It covers the same control or color features as the 5-Wire thermostat wiring above except for heat only. Furthermore, with heat only, you likely will have a 24-volt hot and common (red and blue), a white wire for heat, and a green wire for a fan.
3-Wire Thermostat Wiring | How to Wire a Thermostat
This is common for a digital thermostat that controls a boiler. Finally, it has 24-volt hot and 24-volt common along with the wire for the heat which is likely white.
2-Wire Thermostat Wiring
This likely a heat-only thermostat that is either digital or non-digital. If it is digital it has battery power to power the thermostat. The two wires likely are red for 24-volt hot and white for the heat.
If you have more than five wires then you have more control points or you have a heat pump. Refer to our pages about heat pump wiring on how to wire a heat pump thermostat or our thermostat wiring color page to see the additional control points for your thermostat.
Thermostat Wiring Color Code Table (opens in a new window)
Additionally, be aware that thermostats are equipped with heating and cooling anticipators. Cooling anticipators are not adjustable where heat anticipators are adjustable in mechanical thermostats. Setting the heat anticipator is important for your heating system. And for the thermostat to function properly (only if you have a mechanical non-digital thermostat).
It is set according to the amp draw on the control heating circuit. Additionally, make sure the heat anticipator is set properly. It is set in the thermostat or thermostats. Proper settings ensure you will get the best out of your heating system and your thermostats.
Selecting the Proper Tstat | How to Wire a Thermostat
An AC split or package system with gas, oil, or electric heat
The first thing you should do before changing the thermostat is to select the proper thermostat for your system. Selecting the proper thermostat.
If you are retired or if someone is at home during the day you likely do not need a programmable thermostat. If this is the case the only benefit you will get from a programmable thermostat or thermostat is at night. Or I prefer to say in the morning because you can set it so the unit comes on just before you wake.
That way the house is at a comfortable temperature when you get out of bed. I will describe the advantages of the programmable thermostat in full detail in a different section below. Finally, once you have made the thermostat selection you can proceed to the next step.
Before You Begin Replacing the Old Thermostat
Helpful Page to help you select the right thermostat (opens in a new window)
Honeywell Thermostats Available Here
Thermostat Wiring and Installation Advisory……….If you decide to install your own thermostat you do so at your own risk. There are many incidences where the homeowner installed their own thermostat and was successful. There are also many incidences where the homeowner was unsuccessful in installing a new thermostat. The people that were unsuccessful wasted part of their day, ruined a thermostat or two and caused the malfunction of an integral part of their system.
That is not mentioning the fact that they ended up calling a professional HVAC Technician to fix the problems. Problems caused by improperly installing a thermostat. The unsuccessful end up paying three to four times what they would have paid if a professional was called first. Finally, factor this into your decision, and if there is any doubt call a professional. Call a professional to install and wire the new thermostat.
Before you begin to install your new thermostat turn the power off. For both the condensing unit and the air handler/furnace/or boiler.
Thermostat Installation Tools & Steps | How to Wire a Thermostat
These are the four wires that you need to control the heat, cooling, and the blower or fan. That is for most air conditioning and heating systems. If the colors of the wires do not match the colors described here, make sure you mark the wires with masking tape. Sometimes you will have extra wires that are not connected. That is common. Thermostat wire comes in many different varieties. The contractor who installed the system likely used a five-wire or eight-wire thermostat wire bundle. Finally, they used what they needed and twisted or cut the other wires off.
Thermostat wire terminations should be neat with no excess copper exposed
1
Tools Needed
- Get the tools together that you will need to do a proper thermostat installation. You will need:
- A small straight-slot (or flat head) screwdriver
- A small Phillips screwdriver
- A pair of needle-nose pliers
- A utility knife or wire strippers (for small wire)
- Plastic wall anchors (sometimes provided with the thermostat) good for drywall
- A drill with a bit to make the holes for the plastic wall anchors
- A small level
- Two pencils or pens
- A small paper bag and some masking tape. Tape the bag below the area where the thermostat. Any trash or dust will fall into the bag and not onto the floor.
- Some touch-up paint
- Clean hands (don’t do a great job changing the thermostat and leave all those prints all over the wall)
- Wire nuts (maybe)
- Plenty of light
2
The Power = No Electricity
- Importantly, turn the power off to the air conditioning and heating unit at the circuit breaker or the emergency cutoff switch. It should kill any power going to the thermostat. After doing that, make sure the power is off by turning the thermostat to the on position. Then go to the unit to make sure it is not on. Furthermore, labels on circuit breakers are not always correct.
Additionally, emergency switches do not always function. Just make double sure that you have killed power to the unit. Important not only for your safety but also to keep from blowing the transformer. I get calls all the time to replace transformers because the homeowner changed the thermostat and didn’t kill the power.
They hooked everything up correctly. However, during the process, they touched the wrong wires together and blew the transformer — finally, the transformer powers the HVAC control circuit including the thermostat.
3
Steps and Procedures for Installing the new Thermostat
Basic Control Circuits for HVAC Article (opens in a new window)
- Pull the cover off the front of the thermostat. If it is a mechanical thermostat, there should be a little adjuster tab in the center of it. That is your heat anticipator. It should have numbers ranging from 1.5 to .1. Take note of this setting. Importantly, remember to set the new thermostat to this same setting. However, only if you are replacing a mechanical thermostat with another mechanical thermostat.
You probably want to do this now before you proceed further. If you are replacing a mechanical thermostat with a digital thermostat, the digital thermostat should set itself automatically. If not, read the instructions on the new thermostat for instructions on how to set the anticipator. That is very important. Furthermore, an improperly set anticipator will cause your furnace or heater to run improperly. Thermostats have cooling anticipators. Finally, cooling anticipators are often on the sub-base and are non-adjustable.
4
How to Wire a Thermostat - The Colors and Terminals
First, unscrew the thermostat from the sub-base (wall plate or backplate). Furthermore, take note of each wire. The following list should match the wires and terminals on your thermostat. Finally, use your cell phone to take a picture before removing any wires.- Red to the thermostat RH or thermostat RC terminal with a jumper wire between thermostat RH and thermostat RC. Or Red to the thermostat R terminal which is shared with both the heating and cooling. It has an internal jumper built into the sub-base. The red wire is the source hot wire from the transformer. All other wires, except the common wire, controls a specific relay or contactor. These components will energize the fan, heating, or cooling depending on the selection. The following are the common wiring colors. However, your system may not be common and different colors could have been used.
- Green to the thermostat G terminal. This is the color that controls the fan or the relay that controls the blower.
- Yellow to the thermostat Y terminal. This is for control of the air conditioning.
- White to the thermostat W terminal. This is for control of the heating.
5
How to Wire a Thermostat - Removing Wires
- Remove the wires from the terminals on the sub-base. Is the power off? Be careful not to let the wires fall back into the wall. Sometimes there is just enough wire to reach the terminals, and that’s it. Try pulling the wires a bit to see if there is more wire behind the wall. Most of the time, there is some slack, and you can pull the wire out more. Unscrew the sub-base from the wall while holding the wires. Pull the sub-base off the wall and wrap the wires around the pencil or pen. Finally, this will keep the wires from falling back into the wall.
- Next, get the new sub-base and compare it to the old one. Hold it up to the wall in the position you want it. Is the old paint that was covered by the old sub-base going to be covered by the new sub-base? If any of the old paint is going to show, you may want to make some touch-ups now. After finishing with that, install the new sub-base back on the wall in the position you want it. Make sure it is as level as possible. You can use a level to do this. (This is very important, especially for mechanical thermostats. It must be level, or the mercury switch will not keep the proper temperature settings in the house. Make sure it is level.) Finally, mark the new holes through the sub-base where the screws will go into the wall to fasten the sub-base.
6
How to Wire a Thermostat - Anchors
- It is important in this step to have the proper drill bit size. The bit should match the size of the wall anchors you have. Some wall anchor kits come with a bit in them. I recommend the wall anchor kits with the bits in them. The bit is the perfect size for the anchors. The bit should be slightly smaller than the anchor. If the bit is bigger, the wall anchor will not hold. And the possibility exists that the thermostat will fall off the wall. Drill the mounting holes you made for mounting the sub-base. Insert the wall anchors and push them hard with your thumb. Approximately 1/16th of an inch on the lip of the anchor will remain to stick out of the hole. Furthermore, if it is more than that, use the butt-end of the screwdriver. Finally, push it in until just the tip of the anchor remains visible.
- Undo the wires from the pencil or pen and run them through the center of the sub-base. Insert the screws and screw them only snug tight. Get the level and make sure the sub-base is level. When you are sure that it is level, tighten the screws. Finally, be careful not to allow the sub-base to move when you are tightening the screws.
7
The Colors and Terminals on the New Tstat
- Using the color code of the thermostat wires, attach each wire to its proper terminal. (or if they didn’t match, the color markings you made with masking tape). Some people like to loop the wire around the terminal screws. That is not necessary. Furthermore, what is necessary is that the wires are attached to the terminals, and they are tight. Additionally, make sure that none of the bare wire is touching anything except the terminal. Once the wires are attached, you are almost finished completing the task of installing the thermostat. Finally, the hard part is over!
8
Final Procedures
- Attach the new thermostat to the sub-base. Most thermostats have built-in screws, while others snap in place. Tighten these screws and check to make sure the heat anticipator is set properly. It should have the same setting as the old anticipator setting. Furthermore, some modern digital thermostats will not have an anticipator setting. If the thermostat instructions say nothing about the anticipator, don’t worry about it. Additionally, some thermostats do not have screws holding the thermostat to the sub-base. Instead, the thermostat snaps onto the sub-base.
- Attach the front cover to the thermostat and restore power. Start and check the heating, air conditioning, and with the heating and air conditioning off, the fan only sequence. All systems should be working properly at this time. (Provided you did the task properly). Finally, you are the proud owner of a brand new, properly installed thermostat
Final Advice
Additional answers to your questions concerning thermostats can be found here in our thermostat category index. Other questions about a Honeywell thermostat, Honeywell thermostats, programmable Honeywell thermostats are found at the Honeywell Thermostat website. Additionally, see the thermostat wiring color code chart to help with How to Wire a Thermostat.
The Nest Learning Thermostat, Ecobee, Sensi, and other WiFi thermostats, including Honeywell WiFi t-stats allow remote control and monitoring so you can check or change the temperature when you are away. Finally, these newer thermostats allow you to have a smart home by offering precise temperature control. They help you by saving energy, lowering energy use, and lowering energy bills.
How to Wire a Thermostat - Thermostat Wiring Diagram
This thermostat wiring diagram is a split system. These split systems include an air conditioner with a gas furnace, oil furnace, or electric furnace. Furthermore, the wires going to the condensing unit are shown in red and white. However, these colors can be different.
Additionally, one wire originates from the thermostat Y terminal and terminates at the condenser. The other wire originates from the common side of the transformer. Finally, the transformer is commonly installed in the air handler.
Transformer Location
In rare installations, the condensing unit will have a transformer. The manufacturer did not install the transformer in the condenser. The transformer was blown in the past. It was replaced in the condenser rather than the air handler.
Additionally, the colors here are typical. However, they can be different depending on who wired the unit and their color-coding system. Most HVAC technicians will use this color code. However, there is an occasional oddball who knows better than everyone else. Or perhaps the wiring color combination was not available for the new installation.
Old Thermostat Disposal
Always keep in mind to properly dispose of hazardous materials responsibly. Furthermore, older mechanical thermostats contain mercury, and mercury is extremely hazardous to human health and our environment. Furthermore, most municipalities have a hazardous waste collection site. Finally, they will be happy to accept your old thermostat and dispose of it properly.
Additionally, there are state and federal laws that are explicit about properly disposing of hazardous waste, including products containing mercury. Please do not throw the old thermostat in the regular waste bin. Be responsible and properly dispose of the old thermostat. Furthermore, for more information, please see HVAC Products Containing Mercury and Proper Disposal. Finally, additional information on products containing mercury can be found on the EPA website.
Thermostat Wiring Diagrams
Your Resource for HVAC Thermostat Wiring Information – How to Wire a Thermostat
COVID 19 Home Protection
UVC Light to Kill Viruses and Other Airborne Harmful Things that Affect Health
For additional protection, you can also use UV Light that will kill harmful viruses and bacteria inside the airflow of the air handler. In labs, researchers used a spectrum of ultraviolet light called UVC to kill viruses. This product requires professional installation so it will turn on and off with the blower fan in your air handler but it will offer the protection you need for you and your family from any viruses.
Click the image to the right for purchase options of the UV light to protect your family.
I have a very old (40+ years) mechanical thermostat that has only three wires – Red connected to R, White connected to W, and Green connected to B (maybe my eyes are bad and it’s black?). This is in an 11 story building where the building turns on the AC in spring and turns on the heat in fall. My HVAC pumps out heat when heat is on by the building and ac when that is on by the building.
I’m having a hard time finding a way to upgrade my thermostat. Any thoughts about this would be appreciated.
I have an old furnace and only 2 wires coming to the thermostat. I am replacing thermostat with a Wi-Fi one that needs a c wire. I can run a e wire bundle with no problem. This issue I have is where to connect it on the old transformer. I have a TH and a TR connection that the current thermostat wires are connected to. Beside the TR connection there is another connection point with nothing connected to it. Can that be used as a c wire connection.
Sorry I meant to say I can run a 3 wire bundle with no problem
I have upgraded three thermostats which are connected to a Weil-McLain boiler with 18-2 wire. Two zones are connected to Honeywell switching relays, which I assume has a transformer and a switch, and it is connected to the boilers and the circulators for each of those zones. The third thermostat wire connects directly to the boiler’s transformer and from there to the third circulator.
The new thermostats require power. The two thermostats that are connected to the switching relay gets power from the Rh wire, whereas the third thermostat the Rh does not provide any power. When the thermostat for the third zone is turned up the zone does get heat. Because the thermostat does not get power it eventually stops working when the battery dies. What can I do to get power to the third thermostat with only the red and white wire?
you need a common wire from the transformer which means you need 18-3 minimum to make work. The red and white wire will always be the 24 volt hot through the thermostat. The thermostat is nothing more than a switch that opens and closes the 24 volt hot leg off the transformer.
I have a mobile home type electric forced air furnace with an A/C unit. The furnace also has a switch on it for heat or cool. Two wires coming from wall, replaced bi-metal type tstat with digital programmable. New tstat unit works just fine for heat however in cool switch position A/C runs constantly. Have to replace new tstat with old one in the summer in order to get the A/C to shut off. Is there something I missed?
Not sure without looking at a wiring diagram of the system. I’m thinking it has something to do with the switch and maybe the thermostat wiring. If you cannot get it to work correctly then it is best to call an HVAC tech who is good with control wiring.
Hello there,
I have an old water chilled/heated HVAC system (heating and AC) and Tstat is “Honeywell T651A3018 Heat/Cool Thermostat”. I want to upgrade my Tstat to a newer Tstats like nest or ecobee etc. I do think I need to use a 24VAC transformer (Honeywell Aube Technologies RC840T-120 Electromechanical transformer with Built In Relay from amazon) to convert line voltage to 24v which is compatible with these newer Tstats but I am totally lost how the wiring should look like. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!
I would love to help you however, without being there and looking at the system myself and for liability reasons I cannot. I do love doing things like this and have done many retro’s for control circuits in the field but every circuit is different along with several different factors involved in the control circuit. You are going to need more than just a new thermostat. You will also need a few relays and understand basic control circuits. And I would go with the Ecobee over the NEST. Do you have any experience with control circuits and do you have an existing diagram for it now? Do you understand basic electrical and electronic circuits and the laws and rules? Competency is important especially in a matter such as this. If you do not have any of this experience along with the confidence to do it then I recommend calling and HVAC contractor to do this for you.
Does the thermostat G terminal control the furnace fan in both electric furnaces and gas furnaces? If not, what tells the air handler fan to run in a split system with gas heat?
it is different depending on the age of the furnace. Modern furnaces use a control board that usually is based on a time increment for both the starting and stopping of the fan when in heat mode while older furnaces used a mechanical type of relay call the fan limit control that control the fan based on the temperature in the heat exchanger. See this article for an explanation – https://highperformancehvac.com/honeywell-furnace-fan-limit-control-temperature-switch/
With electric furnaces the heat is provided by heating elements in the system and it is necessary to have the fan running when the elements are energized to dissipate the heat as the elements are producing the heat. This is typically done by a sequencer that is controlled off of the “W” terminal.
In any case, be it gas or electric, the fan relay is usually delayed to turn “off” to give the blower time to get rid of the excess heat in the heat exchanger. The delay can be either a special relay, a sequencer, or through the electronics in the control board.
I feel stupid asking this but now that my fingertips are sore… I’ve replaced thermostats before and don’t have a problem with the diagrams, etc. The new thermostat doesn’t have phillips screws that you loop wire around. Instead it has the terminals vertically, you push the wire in and then tighten a screw. I’ve used ones that you pushed the wire in, applied pressure to the end piece and it was locked in. This requires loosening and tightening a tiny screw.
The problem is for me – the 6 wires come from the wall, they are relatively stiff. They are pulled through a hole in the backplate, then each is supposed to be inserted horizontally into its respective terminal. It’s hard to get the wire bent at the right angle,and even tightening the screws it doesn’t feel like they are secure.
I’m thinking I must be missing something obvious. In one of the videos they push the wire into the receptable with one finger, and tighten easily. It’s been literally hours and not done successfully yet. IDK if the gauge on this wire is different, if I’m just a klutz or what. IMHO even if I get them in securely, it looks like when someone uses the wrong size junction box and the wires are cramped. It’s very difficult to get these wires pushed back flush so I can feel confident that the connections are proper.
BTW there’s about 6″ of indivual wire before the insulated cord shows from the wall, so there’s play in the wiring. My only last ditch idea, which I’m not crazy about, would be to cut a small square where the backplate goes (currently the round hole is exactly the size of the cord), with the hopes that having more room to push the wire around would help???? It was 110 degrees yesterday so it’s not the temp causing the temperamental wiring.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, and you can’t hurt my feelings or ego if you point out something easy that I am clearly missing :()
look at this image and see the little holes on the pliers? You strip the insulation off the wire then stick the stripped portion of the wire through the little hole and then bend it over. It makes a perfect wire loop to go under the screws and therefore a more secure termination of the wire.
Parents house has an old Superior Gas Furnace (by Pacific Gas Radiator Co.). The current control is a single push-button switch with 2 indicator lights. This allows 3 heat settings (Low, Medium, High) with gas control by a Standard Remote control Valve Co. 3 position controller. The controller has 4 wires going to it: 24V direct from Xfmr, +3 wires (one to each position terminal). Likewise, the push-button switch has 4 wires: the other side of the Xfmr, +3 wires for each position setting (obviously same wires as connected to the gas controller).
I’d like to convert from the push-button switch to a thermostat, preferably a programmable but at least the “new round” Honeywell (not the digital).
Is there any way to do this conversion? Do I have to just pick one of the gas settings (low/medium/high) and just use that one? Or are there thermostats that can control the 3-position gas valve? (Note: this is a gravity furnace – no fan).
Thanks so much,,,
There are three stage heating thermostats you can purchase that have terminals W1, W2, and W3. Of course W1 would be low, W2 would be medium, and W3 would be high. These different terminals have differential temperature set points. W1 would kick on when the temperature need to turn to satisfy the set point. If the temperature keeps falling below the set point then W2 would kick on and the same between W2 and W3. However, I do not know if this would be proper for your situation because of how the 3 stage thermostat will work. If you have a phone number for the manufacturer of the furnace I would call them and ask them about it. It is very possible they have a solution for you. As a last resort you could call a professional. and let them offer a solution but I’m sure it can be done.
The problem with the staging thermostat is that W1 would still be energized when W2 calls and your controller may not allow that. The same with W3. If the thermostat calls on W3 then you would have all three energized and that may cause problems with the furnace controller. That is why I say call the manufacturer or a professional to make sure this won’t (or will) be a problem and find a solution to fix that problem.
This is a gravity furnace that this set up will not work.
I can send you a wiring diagram of how this is.
I have an old wiring diagram of a push button set up.
Make sure the firebox is not cracked and the flue vent is venting properly before you start putting this type of money into this very old furnace.
Great website. Question: I have a split system (hydroair for heat, compressor to air hander for AC). So, I have two transformers, one in the air handler, one at the boiler. To make a C wire should I use the transformer in the air handler? or the transformer at the boiler?
We have an article here concerning this matter and you can find it here – 1 or 2 transformers. The wire used for heat is typically going to be different for the wire used for cooling. The common should originate from the same source transformer where the hot wire originates from. So if it comes from the boiler or furnace (whatever heating system you have) then the common should come from there also. If the hot wires comes from the cooling system then you should use that common.
my gas floor heating system is a off-on handle system
what parts will be needed to convert to a thermostat control
system
First you need to figure out if it is line voltage (120+) or control voltage (24V). If it is control voltage a typical home thermostat will work where you wire to R and W on the thermostat. If it is line voltage you need to purchase a line voltage thermostat and follow the instructions. Make sure you kill the power to the system before doing any wiring and if in doubt call a professional HVAC contractor to do it for you.
I only have 2 wires from wall. It’s just for heat. does it matter which wire I put into R and W, both same and not marked. Or do I need to test and find hot wire?
it doesn’t matter
So I have a hot water gas boiler to wires running from it the I had the old mercury thermostat so I’m replacing it out if I put the two wires together it makes the boiler function it comes on but I run the wires to the new thermostat red on red and white on white nothing happens white on red red on white Again nothing happens
The only thing I can say is to make sure you check to make sure you have it set to heat and temperature set point is turned up above the room temperature. If it doesn’t work after that, then you have a bad thermostat. R and W are the correct terminals.
ok, I have a thermastat that has only 3 wires, 1 black, 1 red and 1 white.. I’m replacing an existing thermastat because they old one ‘broke’ (how ever they do). So i want to get the ‘correct type’. Now looking at the various pieces of the existing one, the front is a ‘common round dial one’ which attaches to the ‘base plate’ with a few screws and the ‘base plate’ has copper trace lines within it. So, do I need to get a new one like that? and what would I ask for? Since I plan to replace it with the same type model.. Thanks
Round thermostat? Only thermostat like that that comes to mind is the old Honeywell T-87. Honeywell does make a newer round digital thermostat. If it is the old round that is a mechanical thermostat you cannot purchase them any longer. Any products which contain mercury are illegal to sell now. As far as the wires are concerned you will have to trace them out to see where they go. And it depends on what you have for equipment? Do you have an air conditioner with a gas furnace? Just a gas furnace? A boiler with an air conditioner? All these things are important to know before buying a new thermostat. With that combination you describe it is probably best to call a pro.
Before seen ur site I haven’t any knowledge about package unit and about thermostat. So thanks
I have a separate boiler and AC unit. I would like to install a new thermostat that is a WIFI unit. I can send photos of the boiler and the old thermostat wiring. The wire running to the thermostat seams to be from the AC unit not the boiler. How should I wire the new thermostat.
It is possible you could have two different transformers in that system so you would need a thermostat with an RC/RH termination in the thermostat. It is also possible you only have one thermostat. It really depends on how the system was installed and wired. Probably best to call a professional to hook this up for you as it is difficult to say without looking at the system you have and how it was wired.
Ibought a new 18 seer 5 ton stright cool condensing unit and can not get it to run it has 2 stage heating and cooling can you help me thanks
If it is a 5 ton straight cool air conditioner then it does not have heat. Straight cool means no heat, just cooling. If your thermostat does not have a Y1 and a Y2 then then you can stage it. It needs a two stage themostat. Probably best to call an HVAC contractor to wire this for you. They can quickly identify what you have and wire it properly for control.
Hey. You mentioned that some older tstats may have just an R and W wire, and therefore a new digital tstat may require new wire to be run (a bundle containing a C wire). My old tstat has simply a W and a C (black) wire. Do I need to run wire that has W, R and C? And if so, would it save me a headache to run a bundle with more wires in case I install an air conditioner in the future? Thanks
C refers to Common in the 24 volt circuit and on the old mechanical thermostat I am not sure what the C stands for but you do need three wires and yes it would be better to run a bundle of more in case in the future you upgrade. It sounds like that is a heat only thermostat and you either don’t have air conditioning or if you do it is on a separate thermostat. I typically recommend that the two thermostats be combined into one thermostat that will handle both systems if in fact you do have a central air conditioner system. With two different thermostats it is easy to have both systems running at the same time which is a waste of energy. You can pick up multiple bundled thermostat wire at your local hardware store.
Hello
I would like to know how to wire two heating
Units on a same thermostat. Becasuse i have these two heating units running on a same open space. Thank you in advance.
We cannot use one thermostat to control two different heating system which were controlled by two different thermostat.
Hi, I have a room served by a rooftop unit having its thermostat. In the same room, there is a perimeter heater (hot water) which is controlled by its own thermostat (the thermostat controls the modulating valve on the perimeter heater). So, I have 2 T-stats in the same room. The rooftop unit is doing cooling and heating.
I am looking for options to use only one thermostat. Is this possible?
Thanks,
Khaled
Yes, this is entirely possible.
Because of the complex nature of control wiring, unless you are an engineer or controls technician, it may do you well to call a professional to make this possible. There are too many variables for me to give you an absolute answer on how to do this without physically being there. But, it is entirely possible to control both systems with a single thermostat.