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We have 12 guests online| Ask Mr HVAC - Ask Mr HVAC 3 |
| Written by Richard | |||||
| Friday, 05 December 2008 05:33 | |||||
Page 3 of 3
Leaking Air from the Air handler and Moisture on an Uninsulated Pipe Sun Porch and What Type of HVAC System Needed Saving Money on Heating and Cooling after retirement Condensation Pipe Leaking Water. Is this Normal? Hot Water Boiler Reset Control? What is it? Leaking Air from the Air Handler and Moisture on an Uninsulated Pipe14) Dear Richard... my partner and I moved into a brand new mill conversion/rehab condo last year that we absolutely love, but after the summer was over, I went into the utility closet (where the air handler/gas furnace are) and noticed that there was copper corrosion crust/rust that had run down from the air handler (not sure from where, but somewhere fairly high up on the AHU). It had dried up, and didn't seem to be enough to run down the sides of the burner even--no streaks). This winter, though, I noticed that the suction line has a 1/4 inch gap below it (crappy install?), and that warm air was blowing out of it! There is a rubber gasket around it but still an open space around the copper pipe. I'm assuming that in the summer, cold air comes out of the same hole, and condensation must form on the first uninsulated 1/2 inch or so of the suction line, then run down leaving dried up copper oxide on the burner. It's also rusting the bolts on top of the burner. Plausible? How do I deal with the AHU? A little expanding foam? It would have to be replaced every time the panel comes off, though. Should this air be allowed to escape? It seems like a lot of air coming out. Thanks SO much, I have learned a lot from reading your articles! Also, what is a typical donation amount to your website? How do I deal with the AHU? A little expanding foam? It would have to be replaced every time the panel comes off, though. Should this air be allowed to escape? It seems like a lot of air coming out. Answer...... Sun Porch and What Type of HVAC System Needed15) We added a 300 sq.ft. of living space to our home as a sun porch. How do we effectively, efficiently heat/cool this space? We've been pitched several options. 1) Use existing with a manual duct damper to the new sun porch. 2) same as above but use a zoned approach w/auto dampers for main house 1st floor and sun porch plus separate thermostats. 3) HVAC with new units for sun porch (e.g., radiate, forced air, etc) Sun porch is a 15x20 fully enclosed insulated space with 6 ft. casement windows on three sides. The forth side is the main house wall. Main house is 2 story, 1600 sq ft. per floor, gas heated with 2 Trane furnaces and cooled with 2 Trane central air units. The Trane equipment is new being installed in 2007. Answer...... Ductwork Positioning?16) I did not see any reference to my question and would appreciate a response as soon as possible, as due to medical situation, have to make a decision soon. We own an OLD house with 13' ceilings in a large part of the home and 11" ceilings in the LV/DR and BR. We are oscillating on where to place the ducts....Floor or ceiling. It appears to be counterproductive to me to put the duct work in the ceiling since it will have so far to go. We are looking for the most cost effective, not upfront cost but operating cost, solution. In addition, we are considering DF heat pumps. The house will need 2 or 3 to be zoned correctly. Please let me know about the duct placement and thank you for your help. Retired and wants to close off part of the house to save money on heating and cooling17) I have a Heil gas/electric pkg in my home. I, particularily, want to know, if I can close off a section to save on heating. Heating dealers have not been helpful as they hedge on whether and how this can be done with the system still running at it's most efficient. I have closed doors to seal off area. Then closed floor registers. Should I also close air return in that area? I just read this should not be done at all as it decreases units efficiency? Will you please advise. Thank you. Condensation Pipe Leaking Water. Is this Normal?18) We have 2 air conditioning units in our house and 2 pipes protrude from the roof. One of the pipes is dripping water. We were told to look for a blockage and to empty the pans. I don't see where to check for a blockage. Any suggestions? Hot Water Boiler Reset Control19) Richard, We are looking at replacing our boiler with a new boiler. The HVAC contractor, I suppose he is the salesman for the HVAC contractor, is trying sell us what he refers to as a rest control for our boiler. He tells us it will save us more money by making our boiler more efficient. I think I understand how it works but my wife is not entirely sure about it. Can you tell us what you think about a boiler reset control and how it works? Thanks and we have learned so much from High Performance HVAC. Keep up the good work. Brent Trackback(0)
Comments (50)
  written by Richard, August 25, 2009
I would say yes it is a possibility the pulley is bad. Is this an adjustable sheave and if so has it been re-adjustable since test and balance adjusted the sheave? Additionally, an amp draw with an amp clamp on the motor will also tell you a lot such as the possibility of a bad motor bearing or belt slipping. If this is on a VFD is this set for a soft start or does it ramp to 100% right away?
written by Carl Vuono, August 26, 2009
I would like to install a split system in my home. I have plenty of room for ductwork in the attic and basement and access to electrical . My question is I am a mechanic by trade and have done residential electrical work. Do you think I can install this system
myself?
written by Steve, August 27, 2009
Richard,
It is not an adjustable sheave. The motor is on a VFD and the speed is based on static pressure of the building. I did do an amp check. The FLA of the motor is 57 and at 80% I was drawing about 42 amps. This unit has been in service for about 10 years and never had this problem. The sheave holds four belts again the shaft of the motor the pulley of the motor along with the belts are smoking hot, but the fan shaft and the fan pulley is cool. It did seem like the outer belt is running about 15 degrees hotter than the other three belts. So I removed the outer belt ran the fan with three belts and no difference in temp on motor shaft and motor sheave. Thanks, Steve
written by Richard, August 27, 2009
Steve,
Without being there to look at it myself I really couldn't tell you but it looks like you have done a great job of troubleshooting this problem. I would replace the sheave as it appears the motor and the belts are okay. I have changed a few sheaves out that were experiencing similar issues. Perhaps over time the sheaves wear out. Maybe just a millimeter or less of wear but that would definitely cause the belt to slip especially at higher speeds as in this case.
written by Richard, August 27, 2009
Carl,
I would say it is not impossible for you to install yourself but I encourage you to hire someone who really knows what they are doing. There are so many different things you need to know to install a split system properly. There are code issues and technical things you need to know to successfully and safely install a split system yourself. There are also many specific tools you need to purchase to install it successfully and safely yourself. I think it would be prudent that you find a good contractor to install the new split system and then you can let them worry about warranty issues.
written by Scott, August 30, 2009
Mr HVAC,
I am trying to install a honeywell digital thermostat that has RH, RC, W,Y,G wires. My existing thermostat has R,G, C O,Y, and W. From what I can tell the R goes with the RH, The O goes to RC, and all the others seem obvious except the C. What do I do with that? Do I need it? Thanks, Scott
written by Jack Morris, August 31, 2009
I have a Carrier 38SQ split heat pump system. The Carrier supplied thermostat PN HH93AZ186 subbase has a unique output connection labeled P. The thermostat schematic indicates that P is energized (24VAC) whenever the thermostat selector switch is in the cool or heat position. (P is open when the selector switch is in the off or supl. heat position). The Honeywell TH8320u1008 Digital Thermostat that I want to use to replace this thermostat does not have a corresponding terminal to support this P wire. I don't know if the TH8320u will work since it appears that the 38SQ heat pump control board needs this P control wire to determine if the thermostat is set to the cool or heat position. Without this signal, I doubt that the control board will know how to operate the heat pump.
Any suggestions? Thanks, Jack
written by JR , September 07, 2009
my heat pump condenser fan keeps blowing backwards its blwing down threw the coils in stead of blowing the heat up. i stop m y thermosat and restart it sometimes it will blow the right deriction
written by Roberta Keeney, September 12, 2009
i have a digatal thermostat for a rheem heat pump and it says no power and the outside unit won't come on. I can push the button down on the contactoer and the unit will come on. do u know what may be going on? Thanks
written by Kayla Williams, September 13, 2009
I need to know where I can find schematic pictures online for a single-phase various speed fan motor.
written by Roberta Keeney, September 14, 2009 i have a digatal thermostat for a rheem heat pump and it says no power and the outside unit won't come on. I can push the button down on the contactoer and the unit will come on. do u know what may be going on? Thanks
written by robert, September 18, 2009
check for a shorted condenser fan motor capacitor. replace same, should take care of problem
written by robert, September 18, 2009
you have no power from the step down transformer. (this is what reduces whatever voltage come to your furnace to 24 volts for control purposes) Check for a fuse in the control board ( it looks like a car's blade type fuse) it is normally a 3 or 4 amp fuse.
If that does not help, and not power is present, INSURE that power to furnace is present.
written by g.gandhi, September 22, 2009
hi,
1.check the motor belt alligment because if belt allignment not proper,motor puly heated. so check belt allignment 2.motor bearing housing is very loose, heat occured in shaft and pully 3.if motor insulation resistance is very low, motor heated
written by g.gandhi, September 22, 2009
HI
RC = COMMON RH = LINE Y= OUTPUT (24 V ) THAT Y IS CONNECTED COMPRESSOR OR THREEWAY VALVE RC=C= O VOLT RH =R=24 VOLT
written by a guest, September 26, 2009
Why is it necessary to have air venting in a hot water system
written by raul, September 28, 2009
i was checking a split ruud 3 ton sistem, wich
was makeing ice, i checked the air flow, wich is all rigth, also checked all the inlet grill´s to be open, no dirt on filter or inner coil, freon charge o.k. (60/255 at 90° F), this unit ran all summer long whit very dirty condensing coil on temperatures up to 122° F, do you think it is possible that the ice makeing is do to damaged compressor valves (reciprocal) as the freon runs slower through the sistem? thanks.
written by imran, September 29, 2009
york split a/c ducted type copper pipe longest distance is 40-45mts from indoor to outdoor its possible or not
not -according to mfg 25 mts so i need te solution clearence distance of outdoor unit model hb480/lb480
written by dustin, October 03, 2009
last week i fired up our heater for the first time. it worked perfect. 2 days ago i turned the thermostat to heat the unit fired but the blower fan didnt come on. its probably something simple but not sure where to go from here. thanks.
written by Kim Key, October 03, 2009
When replacing a condensor fan motor that has a brown wire and a brown/white wire for the run cap., can you only hook up the brown/white wire to a dual split cap. and not use the brown wire?
Thanks!
written by Robert, October 08, 2009
Whenever my forced air heating unit completes it's heating cycle, the blower will shut off and then immediately restart briefly several times before remaining off. I suspected an anticipater circuit in the thermostat but I couldn't find one. What do you think?
written by a guest, October 08, 2009
Check control voltage 24v on t/stat, if no voltage check step dn trans. in id a/h
written by Jim Little, October 08, 2009
How hot would you expect the actual distribution piping in my home boiler / radiator system to run? It shouldn't be over 180F, should it?
Are there code restrictions on that temp...makes me nervous when it is distributed throughout the house.
written by a guest, October 13, 2009
If heat is supplied by combustion, the combustion must always be vented.
written by Richard, October 16, 2009
180 degrees F is normal for loop temperatures for a hot water boiler and higher temperatures for steam loops (of course). There are codes concerning flues which penetrate floors, walls, and roofs but with your typical hot water or even steam the pipes never get hot enough to cause combustion of the materials which your home is constructed of...............
written by Crystal Lewis, October 17, 2009
How do I light the pilot for a Carrier model number 58pb075121c
written by Brittany, October 18, 2009
Hello, we are installing a new air conditioner unit on my home and we are doing some of it ourselves. We were told that we have to use acetylene to weld the copper tubing from the condenser to the evaporator (I hope I'm saying all that right!), and were also told that solder will not hold the pressure that the line needs. I've heard different things, but we want to do it right without having to spend unnecessary money! Thank you!
written by Bill, October 18, 2009
If you are asking a basic questions such as this then what other things are you missing that will lead to as poor installation. Absolutely it should be silver soldered by brazing the copper otherwise it will be a big problem for you with leaks. But do you know how to do this properly without oxidation in the system or adding a filter drier to the line. What about nitrogen purge and proper refrigeration evacuation? And what about mechanical code and electrical code issues that even the professionals get hit with. Sometimes it is best to leave certain things to the professionals. Spending unnecessary money can include improperly installing the air conditioner and having to call the professional to come and repair it over and over again for making simple installation mistakes. I live in Texas and I have seen these kinds of installs. Sometimes they work out good but most of the time it is a mess and the homeowner would have been more comfortable and saved money by having a pro do the installation properly in the first place. Good luck.
written by Ron Downs, October 19, 2009
Why is my fan running all the time with the system turned off? I recycled the power, but theonly way I can get it to turn off is to turn the system on and adjust the temperture settings to satisfy the temperture inputs to allow the system to stop running. Then when I turn the system off the fan starts runnning again.
written by Bill, October 19, 2009
Look at this link for lighting your pilot light: http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/...m58-20.pdf
or you can also find it here: http://www.high-performance-hvac.com/gas-furnaces/hvac-heating/gas-furnaces/how-to-light-a-pilot-light/menu-id-69.html
written by Bill, October 19, 2009
the problem lies elsewhere............you need an HVAC tech to look at it.
written by Bill, October 19, 2009
Follow the instructions as provided on the label of the fan motor.
written by Bill, October 19, 2009
You either need a shorter distance or a larger capacity compressor
written by Bill, October 19, 2009
You have either a stuck contactor or relay or a bad circuit board. Call an HVAC tech to find the issue and resolve. Its high voltage and needs caution to change out after proper troubleshooting.
written by khalid, October 19, 2009
I hear the sound of refrierant flow in my air conditioner( condinsing unit ) type split capacity 2 ton cooling and heating(reversing valve) . thank you and best regard
written by Sean, October 20, 2009
My thermostat says the heater is on ("heat" with flame by it) but its not. No air is blowing and the outside unit is not on (fan not turning. It will eventually turn on when it wants to. I have tried adjusting the temperature with no results. Any suggestions??
written by Kim Hickman, October 26, 2009
I have a Carrior Gas unit. Model # 0D5axa030014aaaa.
Just bought house few years ago. The condensation pump on the indoor unit in the basement is pooling up water. any ideas?
written by peter, October 27, 2009
no chance of dammaged compressor as you are reading 60/250psig. what is the temperature in the house (return air) and what is the supply temperature? what is the discharge temperature on the liquid line and what is the suction line tempature? sounds like your short of refrigerant.
written by Shannon Williams, October 30, 2009
I am looking for air filters for our HVAC system we have in our house. The size is 10X10X2 Pleated. Where may I order them and how much are they? Thank you.
written by Basheer, October 31, 2009
Please Provide Pressuristion unit selection Procedure in HVAC.
Regards Basheer
written by Basheer, October 31, 2009
Please Provide Pressuristion unit selection Procedure in HVAC.
written by Christopher Bryce, November 04, 2009
Hello I am currently going to school for HVAC Service and was wondering what was the easiest way to find common run and start?
written by Dennis, November 04, 2009
We installed a Westinghouse 95% efficient furnace and 14 SEER AC unit last summer and ever since these units were installed we have experienced high humidity levels in our house. Our house is 38 years old (so i wouldn't consider it tight construction) and has dbl. glazed replacement windows that are over 18 years old. We also added blown in insulation into our attic last fall (R=49+/-) We use exhaust fans in our bathrooms whenever we bathe and also use the range hood when we cook. We also are experiencing excessive dust migration so much in fact that we have installed apleated filter in the electronic air filter slot. What is causing our humidity problem and how do we fix it?
written by Gary Cooper, November 07, 2009
Dear Sir,
I have purchased a Hardy Mfg. water stove Mod. H-2. I connected the waterstove as per manufacturers directions ( available on the net) used a Hunter mod.40035A thermostat with a 2-wire hook up. The Nordyne unit is controlled by a Janitrol Mod.HPT 18-60 thermostat.I can't get anything to work like it is supposed to, can you help???
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We have a 50 h.p. motor on a Air Handler that supplies a whole building. We just replaced the motor old motor had bad bearing. We put new belts on unit with correct tension and proper alignment. When the fan ramps up over 75% you can smell a burnt rubber throughout the building. Shut down the unit and the belts and motor shaft is so hot you cannot touch it. Could I have a bad pulley on the motor side? Do you have any suggestions for trouble shooting this problem.
Thanks,
Steve